Cartagena, Colombia

Arriving at CTG:

Use the bathroom on the plane before debarking because there isn’t one before you pass through immigration. 😱
There are no signs or instructions regarding the immigration process. In March 2023, we needed to produce our COVID-19 vaccination cards and passports.
We were “plucked” from the communal line and escorted to the diplomat line. We were confused but grateful.
There are no ATMs in the international arrivals terminal. There are cambios, but the exchange rate is worse than an ATM. Use Uber if you don’t have any pesos.

Taxis:

Taxis are yellow, white, or unmarked. They have no meters.
Negotiate your fare before you get in the vehicle.
Expect to be overcharged by taxis near the clock tower in the old city.

Walking:

Wear comfortable shoes. Seriously. Your feet will swell: my toenail polish melted/rubbed off on my socks. 😬
The sidewalks in and around the old city are uneven, and there are many holes.
Expect to be approached by street vendors selling tchotchkes, restaurant staff filling tables, fruit ladies “selling” photographs, and hip-hop artists who are not just trying to entertain you. You may have to say, “No, gracias,” more than once. A local warned us that hip-hop artists occasionally pickpocket.
Don’t walk outside of the old city at night.

The Old City:

There are three sections: San Diego, El Centro (Santo Domingo), and Getsamani. You can see all three on foot.
Taxis and private vehicles use the roads, so don’t expect to use them as pedestrian thoroughfares. Gridlock is common.

Advice | Opinions:

It’s ~10 degrees north latitude, so wear sunscreen and a hat, and carry water.
Food and water:
- Assume the tap water is non-potable. Drink bottled water and buy it from a store, not a street vendor.
- We brushed our teeth with bottled water.
- We avoided uncooked vegetables and fruits with edible skins (just in case).
- Take Imodium and an antibiotic with you in case you get traveler’s diarrhea.
Don’t come here for the beach.
Apple’s Translate app is excellent if you do not speak Spanish.
We spent six days in Cartagena, but three would be plenty to see all of the old city, the convent (Convento de la Popa), and the fort (Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas).
- We took a food tour on our first full day which exposed us to street food and Getsamani. Have some tangerine juice outside of Santuario de San Pedro Claver, have plántanos con queso at Restaurante Donjuán Cartagena (a cart to the left as you exit the clock tower facing the convention center), and travel further up Avenida Venezuela to El Sombreron Ostreria to have the seafood or shrimp misto. In Getsamani, have some beer from Santa Marta at The Beer Lovers, then shrimp tacos from the Santa Isabel food trucks.
- We hired our food tour guide to take us to the convent, the fort, and Manga Island. It cost slightly more than a bus ticket with entrance to the convent, and it was a much more personal experience.
We skipped the sunset cruise, the cruise to Isla Rosario, and the mud bath at the volcano. Destinations like Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona, Cuidad Perdida, and Mompós are too far for day trips.
Have a rooftop sunset experience. We did from Movich. Alquimico’s roof does not have a view.
We opted to eat at places that “felt” more local than fine dining, like Rebellion Alma & Sabor (Getsamani) and La Taperia (San Diego).
We stayed at a Marriott property because we have status and points; otherwise, we would have stayed in the old city.
Do NOT skip Getsamani or you will miss Cartagena's best art, murals, food, and beer.

Departing from CTG:

Have your passports and boarding passes in hand until you get to security.
There are no instructions regarding security, but the usual drill prevails: electronics out of your bags and metal off your body; however, we did not need to produce our quart-bags of liquids.
It took us less than 20 minutes from the curbside drop-off to get through security.
There is a Priority Club and food courts in the international departure terminal.